Soul Surfing Quotes
In this section we ask soul surfers and top professionals,
"What does Soul Surfing mean to you?"
Read on as these surfers share their personal ideas about Soul Surfing: |
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| "Aloha, this is Opuda Moho from the Big Island, down here at Banyans. Hawaiian Soul Surfing means to me, everything we've got here and all the surf that we have, for the keikis, for the people, this is all ours! Get involved. Get your children out there. Hawaiian Soul Surfing is all yours!" |
Opuda Moho Big Island, Hawaii |
Potter Big Island, Hawaii |
"Hawaiian Soul Surfing means going out there with your friends and having a great time, coming in and playing uku', drink beers, and having a good time with my friends. That's what it means to me!" |
"My name is Poita Polotu. I'm originally from Hauula, near the North Shore, but I moved to the Big Island because there's alot of good fishing grounds and it's still wide open country. Soul Surfing to me is getting out there and enjoying, and becoming one with the ocean. That's what I love to do. Whether with my net or surfboard- that's me, man- one with the ocean!"
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Poita Polota Big Island, Hawaii |
Darrick Doerner Tow- In Pioneer Star of In God's Hands Oahu, Hawaii |
Soul Surfing is what its all about! Your style expresses your lifestyle . . . in the lineup and out of the lineup. Its about being free. Its about paddling out with myself and my friends and leaving all the political b.s.- all the bad stuff - on the beach, going out in the water, and feeling the motion of the waves. Everything about it is soulful. I mean, there's no money in the world that could pay for the feeling that you are going through. And I think Soul Surfing is a beautiful name for this show." |
Kelly Slater Five Time World Champ Four Time Pipe Master U.S.A. |
"Soul surfing to me means enjoying the ocean every time you go surfing and enjoying what you are doing at all times . . . pretty simple . It could be in a heat since there's only a couple other guys out, I don't care, I just like surfing . . . its fun!" |
"Soul surfing is a lifestyle to me. Its like gettin' up in the morning and checking the ocean first thing you do and then planning your day . . . Going out and getting wet regardless, because its always better than being dry. It doesn't matter what the waves are, just sharing with your friends."
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Gary Linden Surfer/Shaper U.S.A. |
Peter Cole Legendary Big Wave Rider Oahu, Hawaii |
"Soul Surfing to me means surf with your friends and having the comradery that we get at Sunset Beach . . . laughing, telling story, . . . sharing . . . the thrill of riding a good wave. There's no sport, that I know of, that has all the ingredients of pure enjoyment that surfing does. Don't ever take yourself too seriously out there, just have fun."
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"Soul surfing to me is about being in the ocean and enjoying the waves with some friends, you know, just having a good time."
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Rob Machado Top A.S.P. Professional Cardiff, California, U.S.A. |
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Skill Johnson
M.C. Triple Crown Contest Announcer
Oahu, Hawaii |
"Soul surfing! Its a feeling you get . . . just like, 'Yeah, man!' . . . getting out there and participating, just trying, and sharing! Beautiful thing, huh?" |
"Soul surfing to me is enjoying probably the best part of life you could have- being a surfer!"
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Steven Slater Kelly's Little Bro- Longboard Ripper Florida, U.S.A. |
Tom Carrol Former World Champion & Pipe Master Australia |
"Soul surfing to me is what you do when you are thoroughly in the moment enjoying and expressing yourself on the wave and being one with the ocean." |
"Soul surfing to me is an elusive state of mind focusing on the basic reason why you surf. The challenge is to get that state of mind in any crowded situation, any waves, any day of the year, with anybody in the water. Its a state of mind and a feeling that comes from that state of mind."
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Tony Ray Big Wave Hell Man Australia |
Bronson Hilliard Webmaster, Editor, Producer of surf media Oahu, Hawaii |
"Soul surfing to me, it could be any day. It could be Rocky Point with a hundred guys out, you know. You pull in the barrel and that's all you're thinking about, you know? You're sould out!" |
"George Downing said to me one day, when I was staying in town and there wasn't much waves, "we're going to go ride some mals (longboards). We drove down to Waikiki and surfed . . . the last half-hour of the day . . . and then surfed into the moonlight for another hour or so. And after, he said to me, "You had to see that." It felt like those old beach boys days . . . He sort of let me feel that for the day. You grown up (in Hawaii) embracing surfing, and that's Hawaiian."
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Barton Lynch Former World Champion & Pipe Master Australia |
Ross Clarke-Jones Big Wave Tow In Freak Australia |
"To me, soul surfing is going out and surfing without cameras, almost without anybody, on your own, when you are just surfing for what it is, just enjoying it for the sport and for yourself." |
| "Hawaiian Soul Surfing means becoming one with nature and the waves, having good fun, talking story, just kicking it back out there in the water. That's what Hawaiian Soul Surfing means to me." |
John "Blacky" Kealoha Hawaiian Soul Daddy Oahu, Hawaii |
Alikai Kinimaka Kauai Boy Kauai, Hawaii |
"To me Hawaiian Soul Surfing means just getting out there with a bunch of your friends and having a good time. Then coming in and GRINDING a BIG MEAL! Aloha!." |
Dick Brewer Legendary Board Shaper Oahu, Hawaii |
"Originally, Soul Surfing was about becoming totally involved with the wave and forgetting the outside world. The Soul Surfing of today is people really getting involved with the wave and the sport because these little boards we have now are really hard to ride. You really have to give up alot to be able to surf on these boards." |
Plowin' |
Rochelle Ballard Top Women's A.S.P. 10 Point Tube Rider Kauai, Hawaii |
"(Soul Surfing to me means) Getting away from the cameras and from the contests and enjoying yourself with a couple of friends in some fun waves and talking story out in the water and just rooting each other on out in the water and having fun. Its nice to be able to get away and surf some fun waves with just a couple of friends and remember why we surf and that its not just a job for us." |
"Hawaiian Soul Surfing means alot to me because we don't have to go out and surf competitive but we represent the aloha spirit within our souls."
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Kathy Buford Westside Woman's Ripper Oahu, Hawaii |
Tita Tavares '97 OP Pro Women's Champ Brasil |
"Being with friends and surfing." |
| "Just being free and feeling the ocean in harmony with all (of) the planet. I love surfing. For me soul surfing means keep charging and keep surfing no matter how the waves look- if its big, small , or medium. Just go out there and have fun. It doesn't matter if you are ripping or if you are a kook. If you are having fun, it means soul surfing." |
Joinedille Duncan Brasilian Big Wave Charger Oahu, Hawaii |
Jacqueline Silva Women's A.S.P. Rookie Brasil |
"Soul Surfing means free-surfing with alot of friends and having fun." |
"(Soul Surfing means) Surfing alone . . . actually, where I'm from in Australia, I don't surf with anybody. I don't live in a city so I surf practically every day of the week on my own just with dolphins and blowfish and stuff. So- to surf alone- that's soul surfing to me. I really enjoy that. It's so different from being on the tour and traveling. I really miss that when I can't surf alone and I can't just kick back ad relax and appreciate what God has given us all."
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Nerida Falconer Women's A.S.P. Competitor Australia |
Dave Kalama Aloha Filled Hawaiian Oahu, Hawaii |
"Soul Surfing . . . means to catch the biggest wave by yourself and taking a ride like from 'Paradise' all the way down to 'Walls'- which is like almost a half-mile ride." |
Serena "Saucy" Brooke A.S.P. Women's Ripper & Rusty Hotty Australia |
Soul surfing . . ."means not surfing in a contest, surfing for yourself, just experiencing the pleasure of the ocean basically, and releasing all of your stress and having fun." |
"My name is Elija Young from the Big Island and soul surfing to me means going somewhere with your friends and just having a free surf- no cameras, no photog's- just getting a couple good waves, watching your friends get a good surf where everybody is hooting each other. Or also, going out in big surf like Phantoms or the outer reefs somewhere there's nobody around, just you and it's like 20-25 feet and just getting a couple bombs by yourself and just doing for the rush, the adrenalin rush you get out, and not really caring if anyone sees it or not, just because you love doing it."
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Elija Young Big Wave Maniac- Survivor of 30 Foot Waimea Closeout Set Big Island, Hawaii |
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Shiro Yamamoto
Japanese Pro
Japan |
"Soul surfing is people who do surfing as their lifestyle . . . that's soul surfing." |
| "Soul surfing is just fun surfing- what it should be." |
Layne Davey Us Girls Designer Oahu, Hawaii |
Jenny Amatuer Competitor Big Island, Hawaii |
Q: What's your idea of soul surfing? A: "Uh, . . . I don't know- bald guys on longboards! No, soul surfing . . . that's guys that surf for fun. They still get that rush in their stomach before they paddle out, even though they've been surfing for 20 years. And I guess when I think of soul surfing I think of staying away from the contests- people that just surf for fun- for themselves. They don't care if anyone saw that wave they caught, they know they got it and that's enough." |
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